History of Shoes: Wingtips!

A look at the history of the increasingly fashionable wingtip shoe.

Wingtips are Scottish in origin and more commonly known as brogues in the rest of the world. These lace-up men’s dress shoes got their colloquial American name from the stitching design seen on the toe of the shoe, that looks like the letter W, or, more fancifully, a bird taking flight.

Most correctly, the brogue or wingtip is actually a semi-formal shoe. It’s appropriate for a business casual or suited office look, but not for a formal dinner or with a tuxedo. In such circumstances the Oxford is required, although this distinction is often lost in an increasingly casual society.

Whether it’s because of, or despite, the classic styling of the wingtip (which has been popular for decades) the shoe has recently appeared in a whole new range of style permutations, vastly expanding the style category. Once a shoe that only appeared in black or brown leather, the wingtip began to evolve flashy two-tone color combinations (usually, but not exclusively, white and black or brown leather) by the middle of the 20th century.

Wingtips directly modeled on these men’s shoes soon became available for women, but were indistinguishable from the original versions in anything but size for a long time. More radical colors for women’s wingtips came to the type through rockabilly and other retro-inspired fashions and as retro-styling became mainstream, so the women’s wingtip has taken off.

In recent years the women’s wingtip has acquired high heels (from the sensible through stilettos and including platforms); been produced in boot form and even evolved into a sandal featuring cutouts mimicking the structure and design of the traditional men’s shoe. In fact, these louder, flashier, high-fashion wingtips have become so popular for women, it’s increasingly difficult to find the traditional women’s version of the shoe.

Men’s wingtips have also learned a bit from all this experimentation, with the classic W motif now appearing on sneakers and more casual shoes. Non-leather versions of the wingtip also exist, some incorporating mesh to produce a lighter, cooler summer shoe.

Retro fashion trends have also helped the popularity of the wingtip for men, who can now wear the traditional, staid version of the shoe or a flashier variation with an assurance that their style is simultaneously hip and classic.

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History of Shoes: Running

Learn how running shoes evolved throughout the 19th and 20th centuries.

Having a shoe designed specifically for running seems like a no brainer, however, running shoes really didn’t get their start until the end of the 19th century. They then slowly evolved over the 20th century, leading to the huge explosion of running shoe technology and design options that are currently available. It is hard to believe that if running shoes had not been developed, we would be running in the flat soled tennis shoes.

The Birth of the Running Shoe

Running footwear had been almost non-existent prior to the late 19th century. In fact, many people ran in whatever footwear they had, including boots and sandals. However, in the 1890s the shoe manufacturer JW Foster and Sons, which eventually became the shoe company Reebok , developed the first official modern running shoe. This shoe had a tennis shoe outer with a lacing system and metal spikes attached to the sole of the shoe. The spikes were designed to give the runner traction and to help improve their overall running speed.

The Running Shoe Evolves in the 20th Century

By the early part of the 20th century, vulcanization revolutionized shoe manufacturing. Vulcanization was simply the process of melting rubber and fabric together. This molten mixture was then molded to create a sole for shoes that had a tread design. This design revolution made shoes lightweight, quiet, and flexible. It also provided the wearer with traction. Keds was the first American company to mass distribute the new “sneakers” starting in 1917.

In 1925 a German inventor named Adi Dassler, who founded Adidas , evolved the spiked running shoe design further by creating a series of running shoes. Each shoe design had a special hand forged set of running spikes and each design was made especially for a certain running distance. This was the first time designs were focused on whether the runner was a sprinter or a long-distance runner.

During the 1970s running shoes were designed based not only on the type of running the person did, but the running style the runner had. The three running styles that shoes were designed for included neutral runners, supernation runners and pronation runners. The final advancement that running shoes received during the 1970s was the use of ethylene vinyl acetate, also referred to as EVA. This material added an air cushion to the design of a running shoe providing runners with extra cushion and shock absorption when they ran.

Construction of Shoes: Football Shoes!

How are football shoes made?

Football season is still a couple of months away, but my husband (and me too, I admit) is getting excited. Every year my husband attends the Giants training camp at Albany while we are in New York visiting his parents. It’s something he can do with his dad. And the time is fast approaching that we will be in New York – and my husband can watch his beloved G-Men train to defend their Super Bowl championship.

But what about those shoes they are wearing? What are their features? And are they different for different players? I wondered about this, since it seems you would need shoes fitted to the specific rigors of different positions. I mean, wouldn’t a quarterback need greater stability? He needs to be able to plant himself properly to through, so a wider sole would be better. And a narrower sole would work better for the players that need to make different movements — like sprinting.

For the most part, American football shoes are cleats. There are between seven and nine cleats on each show (seven is fairly standard). These cleats are placed in the areas that can do the most good: one at the tip of shoe, four at the middle of the shoe and two at the back of the shoe, near the heel. This allows for the shoe to grip properly.

But it is also important to make sure that you have the right shoes for the turf. Many professional American football players have more than one set of cleats in order to ensure that they can play on either Astroturf or grass. Consider: Astroturf has different challenges, and it is not as soft as grass. This means that it can be helpful to have toe protectors in the front of the shoe in order to protect from “turf toe.” For those playing on grass, it can help to use football cleats with higher tops so that there is more ankle support.

Football shoes are made in a similar way to other athletic shoes, coming with extra padding in some places, and made with leather uppers for flexibility. Plastic coverings can also be found on football cleats. And, of course, the best thing to do is check for proper fit and consider position, since shoes are made differently – and can even be made custom – for different players.

Sling Backs!

Can’t keep your mules on? Perhaps you should try sling-backs instead.

The sling-back is sexy, strappy, for ladies only, alternative to the mule. While sling-backs exist in both flat and high-heel versions, it’s the healed version that’s most common. And while sling-backs are generally a dressier shoe than most mules, they remain popular as a way to provide elegance to jeans or other casual outfits.

The slingback made its debut in the early part of the 20th century and became hugely popular in the 1930s. From then on it never entirely went out of fashion, but its 1930s connection may be what’s helping it to be such a dominant shoe style today. With the popularity of retro fashion and a resurgence in cabaret nights, big band, burlesque and other 1930s influenced events, the sling-back, which can be open- or closed-toe is quickly becoming a required part of any woman’s wardrobe.

And with good reason. Aside from being fashionable and tastefully sexy, sling-backs are probably the simplest style of high heels to walk in and confidence counts. Sling-backs stay on the foot easily without you needing to curl your toes or shuffle along as is sometimes necessary to keep a mule on your foot. Additionally, the strappy, adjustable back makes them ideal for women who have heels narrower than the rest of their foot (a common shoe-fit problem).

The only real downside to the sling-back is the potential for blisters, but these are easily avoided by making sure you are wearing a high quality shoe without rough edges on the strap and that you don’t buckle them on too tightly. More modern sling-backs frequently have an elastic back instead of an adjustable buckle, relying on the stretch of the back-strap to create a good fit for every woman. By and large, this less classic change is just asking for trouble and you might want to avoid it. Your feet swell as the day or evening progresses and an elastic non-buckle sling-back robs you of the opportunity to adjust your shoe comfort throughout the day.

Evolution of Shoes: Espadrilles

Espadrilles , a popular, casual shoe usually worn by women in warmer areas of the United States, have their origins in peasant shoes. These shoes have been worn since the 1300s in the mountains that separate France and Spain. Named after an indigenous plant used to make rope in the region, espadrilles are defined by their soles. Modern espadrilles may replace this rope with rubber molded to achieve a similar look as a way of increasing durability and allowing more variants in the shoe styling, including higher, wedge-shaped heels.

For a peasant shoe, the espadrille has come a long way. Today’s top designers such as Donna Karan produce espadrilles and they can also be readily found in lower-end shoe shops and clothing stores. Espadrilles were particularly popular in the United States in the 1970s and do see a periodic resurgence. Because of the non-leather materials, espadrilles are not costly, allowing many women to own multiple pairs in multiple styles. These includes the previously mentioned varying heel-heights and those with laces that generally attach at the back of the shoe that can then be wrapped around the ankle for support and shoe security.

The top of an espadrille is usually made of canvas and in a closed-toe style, but current variations also reveal the toes or feature cut-out heels for summer wear. Additionally, while the modern espadrille is usually only worn by women, the shoe has historically been for both genders, and men’s styles are seen in warmer climates and periodically as a trend.

While espadrilles originated in Europe, 90 percent of these shoes are now produced in Bangladesh because of the popularity of using jute to make the shoes. Jute is a strong and cheap, natural fiber, that has a naturally bright white color, making it easy to dye or present as is. Like most modern shoes, a process that was once entirely done by hand is now largely done by machine. To increase durability of the shoes, rubber, foam or wooden heels are often added to the espadrille, improving on the simple concept from which they originated.

While production has largely moved, small espadrille producers still exist in the Catalonia region of Spain.

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Keeping Feet Happy: Heel Street Blues

Is heel pain preventing you from enjoying your favorite activities? Wearing the right type of shoes, socks and even losing some weight could help keep those heels healthy and strong; here’s what you need to know.

If a nagging pain or tingling sensation in your heels is preventing you from enjoying your favorite activities, a closer look at your lifestyle may be in order. Heel pain is usually the result of excess pressure on the bottom of the heel, on the arch of your feet and unbalanced weight on the balls of your feet. Too much pressure in these areas can cause tissue damage and if you have ‘flat feet’ or wear high heels on a regular basis, you could be even more vulnerable to pain and discomfort in this area.

Whether you’re an avid tennis player or just enjoy running regularly, you’ll need a strategy to keep those heels in great shape. Here are some simple ways to prevent heel pain and keep those feet strong and healthy:

Wear thick socks

Wearing padded socks with your tennis shoes, sneakers or other supportive shoes can help reduce the impact of jumping, running and stress on the soles of your feet. Wearing a quality brand of thick socks also reduces moisture buildup on your feet, keeping the muscles in your feet taut and tight. Always make sure you’re buying shoes that will accommodate for thick sport socks and you’ll be well on your way to an anti-injury plan.

Learn some new stretches

If you’re not stretching properly before your workout routine or your latest adventure, you run the risk of damaging key tissues, muscles and tendons in your feet and legs. Do a quick three to five minute warm up that targets the feet and lower legs, and make sure you stretch each area to the max.

Lose some weight

Obesity and being overweight put you at risk for feet damage and heel pain, especially if you’re on your feet more often than not. If you’re not at a healthy weight, begin a low-impact exercise program that won’t put too much stress on your joints and feet. When you build up enough strength, move onto other aerobic exercises and fast-paced cardio routines.

Ultimately, wearing the right type of shoes for each activity ensures you won’t be vulnerable to heel damage. Reduce your risk of inflammation with the right supportive shoes, and make sure you stretch and strengthen your legs on a regular basis to prevent injury and keep feet happy!

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History of Shoes: Get to the Pointe!

Learn how the modern pointe shoe evolved.

Pointe shoes, or toe shoes, are dancing shoes that were designed specifically for ballet dancers. The design of this shoe protects a ballet dancer from injuries while they are en pointe, or poised up on their tip toes. Generally pointe shoes are for ballerinas, however, when male dancers play female roles, such as the ugly step sister role in the ballet Cinderella, they too will wear pointe shoes.

The Origins of the Pointe Shoe

Since women weren’t allowed on stage until the end of the 17th century, pointe shoes evolved slowly from men’s traditional dance shoes, which were heeled. The first evolution of women’s ballet shoes came when the traditional heel was removed. The flat-soled ballet shoe allowed female dancers to attempt more complex jumps and turns. After the French Revolution the flat-soled ballet shoe became the norm and the ribbon laces that we are familiar with today were added to the shoe’s design. Pleats were also added to the shoe under the toes so that a dancer could have better grip and control over their feet.

En Pointe

En pointe work really didn’t appear until 1795 when Charles Didelot invented the “flying machine” which lifted dancers up onto their toes. The effect of this machine was so well received by audiences that ballet choreographers tried to incorporate pointe work into their dances. By the early part of the 1800s the technical skills of dancers had improved to a point were the flying machine was no longer needed. Marie Taflioni was the first to dance en pointe without mechanical assistance.

The Modern Pointe Shoe

The toe box, which is the defining component of the modern pointe shoe, was designed after modifications used by Anna Pavlova, a famous 20th century ballerina from Russia. The tapered shape of her feet and her high arches made her particularly prone to injuries. In order to protect herself from injuries she would often shape an old leather dance shoe sole into a box and stuff it into her ballet shoes to provide a little extra support. This was the inspiration for the modern pointe shoe.

Many modern shoe designs are based on modifications made to a normal or special shoe design by a non-shoe maker. These modifications are made to make the shoe more user friendly or more fashionable. What modifications have you made to your shoes that others might appreciate?

History of a Shoe: Penny Loafers

The penny loafer originated in the 1930s when loafers of several varieties were fashionable as men’s and women’s shoes. Somewhat unbelievably, this fashion started with the Spaulding company when they produced shoes styled after those of Norwegian dairy farmers that had appeared in an article in Esquire Magazine. However, it wasn’t until a few years later that the penny entered the equation.

In trying to add his own unique stamp to the popular loafer, John Bass began producing loafers he called Weejuns that had a strap across the top of the shoe for style purposes, as a loafer is traditionally defined by having no buckles or laces. This strap had a split design that was supposed to look like a pair of lips. This opening in the strap was soon used as a way to add a decorative touch to the usually simple loafer and small objects, such as pennies, were often placed there. A stylistic embellishment that had once been peculiar to Bass’s shoes became synonymous with an entire fashion.

When pay-phones were still ubiquitous and hadn’t yet been raised to a quarter, the penny loafer was often the source of funds for an emergency phone call home, especially for school-age children or teens on dates.

Penny loafers have been unique since their inception in that they have moved between both form and casual fashion and men’s and women’s fashion. Acceptable for both genders and viable with everything from a suit to jeans and even shorts, penny loafers have long made a smooth transition from work to play. The unique style of the vamp of the shoe that gives them their name has even been transplanted onto a high-heeled (and therefor non-loafer) version for women.

For men, the penny loafer has generally been worn without socks since the 1960s. This style was particularly popular then, and in the 1980s, where the penny loafer with a suit but no socks was emblematic of preppy fashion. It was seen commonly on style-leading celebrites of the time, such as Don Johnson of Miami Vice.

Women more commonly have worn their loafer with socks or stockings, but as bare legs, even with skirts, have become more acceptable for women, their loafers have also become fashionable as a sock-free shoe, at least in casual circumstances.

Despite its presence in many fads, the penny loafer is a simple, classic and understated shoe with practical, long-term fashion value.