Selvedge denim, Long an underground denim-head’s whispered secret, has now made a triumphant return and gone main stream. Yes, even if you never noticed that white seam exposed on an upturned cuff, you have probably heard of it. What started as a jean phenomenon in the early '90s with cult jean makers like Evisu, has now reached the masses with help in part from retailers like J.Crew’s selvedge brand. For a better understanding on its importance, it helps to think of selvedge denim like an estate wine with limited bottling and distribution, an indigo brew of sorts. Traditionally peddled to men only, selvedge is now finding a home in a woman’s closet as much as a man’s thanks in part to the boyfriend jean trend. The name in itself has significance, as it means self-edge, referring to the way the fabric is woven. Selvedge, was traditionally made with shuttle looms which passed a continuous thread back and forth, where the white thread looped back into the blue, a solid, white edge was formed. The shuttle looms were sold off to the Japanese in the 1950s/60s and ceased production here. This of course explains the cult-like following of the thick, rough-hewn Japanese denim that has global retailers making pilgrimages to denim shrine Hinoya Plus Mart in Tokyo. What is even better than that? Zappos carries it. Yay! Couture’s pick: Evisu Embroidered Brush Stroke Jean.
