As the second-highest volcano in the United States, Mt. Shasta in northern California is something of a white whale for many climbers, offering a challenging climb with a beautiful summit and plenty of difficult routes. This is one of the most accommodating mountains in the U.S. because it offers technical climbs, non-technical climbs, rock climbing, ice climbing and dozens of other options.
In other words, you could climb Mt. Shasta once a week for a year and never have to take the same route twice.
Mt. Shasta is unique in that the optimal time for climbing is different depending on the route you take. Routes on the south side, for example, are best between May and July, while routes to the north are better in the later summer because falling rock isn't as big an issue.
If you'll be climbing Mt. Shasta, particularly on any of the more difficult technical routes, make sure you have crampons and an ice pick handy. Most climbers also bring flashlights, pocket knives and plenty of clothing layers. Sunglasses are advised, especially during the winter, because the glare from the snow can be dangerous.
Because there are so many different routes on Mt. Shasta, climbing with a guide is ideal. He or she can tell you which routes are appropriate for your skill level and physical condition, and you'll probably enjoy yourself more. A guide can also point out important sites from the side and summit, which makes the experience complete.
If you decide to go it alone, however, know that camping on Mt. Shasta can be brutal. High winds, freezing temperatures and rocky or barren land are all common, and you might not get much sleep. Most people choose to camp at Helen Lake, though there are other possible stops before you reach the summit.
When climbing Mt. Shasta, make sure you bring a sleeping bag that is designed specifically for extreme temperatures such as the North Face Dark Star. This bag is approved for temperatures as low as 40 degrees, which means that you'll be snug regardless of the weather on Mt. Shasta.