2 Posts are tagged with: best_climbs

Treacherous Climb of the Week: Old Mike Peak

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Jan 29, 2009 by Steve Thompson

The problem with most mountain climbing in the United States is the crowds. As soon as people realize that a particular summit presents a challenge, the traffic to and from that peak is formidable. For many mountain climbers, it is the peace and seclusion as much as the challenge that draws them out of doors.
The trick, therefore, is to find mountain summits that provide privacy as well as technical difficulty. Old Mike Peak in Taos County, New Mexico, is one such destination. As part of the enchanted circle, it provides a stunning view and more than a few rough spots, but most of the traffic is headed to Wheeler Peak.

Old Mike Peak reaches 13,113 feet in elevation, and although it doesn't make the nation's shortlist of highest peaks, it is one of the most breathtaking. There are two major ascents from the base - one from the horseshoe lake trail and one from the Taos ski valley - both of which present challenges on the climb.

If you want to really get your feet wet on a U.S. climb, you should know that you can summit Old Mike Peak in the winter. Many winter sports enthusiasts climb Old Mike Peak with nothing but their snowshoes and an ice pick, trudging through deep ditches and over rocky ledges to the summit. This is not recommended, however, unless you have snowshoe experience.

Most people make Old Mike Peak a two-day hike, as there are plenty of opportunities for camping. The laws of the Wheeler Wilderness prohibit camping within 300 feet of water, but other than that there are plenty of paces to pitch a tent. One of the most beautiful is the meadow near the Horseshoe Trail opening, but there are also wide portions near the summit where camping is popular.

If you'll be climbing Old Mike Peak in the winter, make sure to bring an ice ax for the trip. The ice is thickest and most treacherous during January and February, but you should bring an ax as long as there is snow on the ground.

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Most Death Defying Climbs: California's Suicide Rock Can Live Up to Its Name

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Jan 22, 2009 by Steve B.

Some climbing destinations, like Mount McKinley or Mount Washington, have names that don't truly indicate the dangers involved in making your way to the peak. With Suicide Rock, however, it's pretty obvious that, depending on where you climb, you will be pushing your abilities to their absolute limits.

Located in Idyllwild, California, Suicide Rock rises approximately 7,528 feet into the air and can be climbed during all four seasons. The name, by the way, comes from a story involving a Native American princess. When her father, the tribal chief, demanded that she stay away from her true love, the legend says that her grief made her jump off the rock to her death.

It's not clear how much of this story is fact or fiction, but the dangers of Suicide Rock are all too real. In August, the Fox News affiliate in Los Angeles reported that two climbers were seriously injured when trying to climb the rock in a rainstorm. According to the report, the lead climber fell 85 feet and hit his partner, knocking them both off Suicide Rock.

This real-life tale indicates the need to be prepared for the changing weather conditions that you may encounter on a climb. For a destination like Suicide Rock, bouldering shoes like the Boreal Ninja can help ensure that your footing is secure.

Despite the obvious dangers, there are approximately 300 routes up Suicide Rock, some of which are suitable for beginners while others require a higher level of skill. With names like "Captain Hook," "Godzilla Face" and "Right of the Escalator," someone obviously had a lot of fun naming the various walls and approaches.

SummitPost.org recommends May through October as the best months to challenge Suicide Rock. Snow and ice can become a problem in December, depending on the California weather conditions and water levels.
With the right equipment and preparation, Suicide Rock can be a fun and challenging climb, but as those climbers demonstrated back in August, it can be a long way down under the wrong conditions.

Sources:
http://www.idyllwild.com/suicide.html
http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/152269/suicide-rock.html
http://www.myfoxla.com/myfox/pages/News/Detail?contentId=7330304&version=2&locale=EN-US&layoutCode=TSTY&pageId=3.2.1

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