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Treacherous Climb of the Week: El Capitan, Yosemite

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Oct 9, 2008 by Steve Thompson

Whenever I think of climbing, my mind always drifts to beautiful mountain peaks and long trails lined with every type of wildlife imaginable. For some climbers, however, it's all about the vertical.

At one time, El Capitan in Yosemite National Park was considered impossible to climb and for good reason. Each of the many routes to the top of El Capitan is long and treacherous, testing both the climber's skill and his endurance. Of course, it's also the ultimate adrenaline rush for people who enjoy looking at the world from the face of a rock.

Made of coarse granite and soaring 3,000 feet in the air, El Capitan is considered the Everest for big-wall climbing. Although I've seen it in person - on vacation when I was about ten - mere pictures of this monolith are sufficient to give me goose bumps.

The routes up El Capitan vary, but the most popular and most difficult is the Nose. It was first successfully climbed in 1958, and since then climbers from all over the world have aspired to reach the summit. This route usually takes two or three days to accomplish, though a few expert climbers have conquered it in just one.

A few of the routes, including the Nose, have been free climbed, but aids are definitely recommended. Unless you have significant experience (and a need for danger), ropes should accompany your expedition in Yosemite. A few climbers who thrive on challenges have raced up the Nose and other routes on El Capitan, but this is also not for an amateur.

In order to climb El Capitan, you'll access it from a trail in Yosemite. I recommend bringing along a light-weight and roomy pack, such as C.A.M.P. Rox, a 40-liter duffel with plenty of space.

I would also recommend becoming proficient at a few smaller big-wall climbs before attempting El Capitan. It might be exciting and adventurous, but it has also been the cause of many injuries over the years. If you have any qualms at all, go with an experienced guide who can "show you the ropes," as they say.

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