Located near the city of Telluride, Lizard Head Peak is one of the most dangerous climbs in Colorado.
Colorado is home to some of the most breathtaking, challenging and dangerous climbs, not the least of which is Lizard Head Peak. Located in the San Juan Mountains, Lizard Head has a 13,113-foot summit and some experts think that climbing it is truly a rotten idea.
Created as the result of volcanic activity, Lizard Head Peak has been battered by the elements over time, resulting in what Summitpost.org calls "the epitome of rotten San Juan Rock." Summitpost also mentions the climbers who have seen the mountain crumble as they were climbing it, making falling rock a real danger to those at the base. Many experienced climbers recommend simply not attempting to reach the Lizard Head summit while others consider it a good training exercise for longer climbs.
The National Forest Service ban on "fixed anchors" also makes Lizard Head Peak even more difficult to tackle. As of June 1, 1998, any anchor bolt, piton or other safety device that can't be removed is illegal to use in the Lizard Head Wilderness. This, of course, has caused some heated debate between the government and climbers, but the ban remains in place.
If you do want to tackle Lizard Head Peak, the recommended climbing periods are summer and fall. It is possible to make the climb at other times of the year, but Colorado does have some pretty rough winters, which can make reaching the summit even more daunting. On the plus side, fees and permits are not required for the Lizard Head Wilderness.
Though Lizard Head is a tough climb, getting to the San Juan Mountain range isn't that difficult. If you aren't within driving distance, fly into Telluride Regional Airport and stay in one of the lodges or take a room at a local bed and breakfast. When you aren't climbing, Telluride also offers other diversions, including art galleries and fine restaurants.
Not recommended for novice climbers, Lizard Head Peak is daunting, dangerous and a definite adrenaline rush. If you want to make the climb, plan your trip well, don't climb alone and watch your footing on the summit.
Sources:
http://www.mountainmadness.com/namerica/lzrdhd.cfm http://www.13ers.com/peaks/SJR/photos_LizardHead.html http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/152036/lizard-head.html http://www.telluride.com/plan-your-trip/getting-here/air.html http://www.americanalpineclub.org/pages/polst/31/11
